Sustainable design on a shoestring budget
1. Buy vintage, deadstock and end-of-roll materials.
Though Source4Style does not feature end-of-roll, deadstock of vintage materials on the site just yet – we highly encourage designers to look into the plethora of pre- and post-consumer material waste that is currently out there on the market. Preconsumer textile waste consists of by-product materials from fiber, yarn and fabric production – and also includes end-of-roll and deadstock materials, which have not been used in consumer good production and often end up in a jobber’s hands or in landfill. Approximately 75% of the preconsumer textile waste is diverted from landfills and recycled into mattress filler, automotive seating, paper and other industries.
Postconsumer textile waste consists of any type of clothing or textile that is discarded. Unfortunately, only half of the textile waste makes it into secondhand clothing with the rest – over 4 million tons in the U.S. alone – going into landfill every year – according to the Environmental Protection Agency (2005). Brands such as UK’s From Somewhere, LA’s Deborah Linquist, Canada’s Preloved, and shoe label Worn Again – have made businesses out of buying up preconsumer and postconsumer waste to create their collections, which not only helps clean up the industry’s act – but also reduces upfront sourcing costs.
2. Purchase PFD or PFP.
If you know you’re going to be working with a basic material season-after-season, think about purchasing it as “PFP” or “PFD,” which means prepared for print and prepared for dyeing, respectively. You often can purchase in larger quantities in advance at a cheaper price/yard or price/meter. Be sure to cost it out first, however – doing research on whether you will be printing and dyeing the material yourself – or hiring someone else to do it for you. This tip resonates with Seattle-based designer, Lizzie Parker, who shared with Source4Style that by specializing in a particular material and choosing fewer fabrics that are PFP and PFD has helped her cut costs, especially in tighter economic times.
3. Minimize waste in pattern making.
As a designer it really helps to be involved in the pattern making process – even if you are not the final creator of the pattern. Even if you don’t become a zero waste practitioner, being able to think about how your design fits onto a piece of fabric will help you rethink design and aid in minimizing waste – which means you’ll have more material to design with in the long run.
4. Start small.
As much as you might want to come out of the gates with a 20-piece collection – it might not be the sensible thing to do right from the start. “Start very small,” suggests Eviana Hartman of Bodkin. “Don’t try to have a huge line without a backer.” Starting small has its additional benefits. For one, it helps focus the designer in on his/her pieces – allowing for a collection with a well-edited point-of-view. Secondly, it minimizes the risk of producing pieces that just won’t sell.
5. Seasonless design.
The concept of “seasonless design” comes in many forms – one being the idea of “classic” shapes and products that stand the test of time and of-the-moment trends. Second being the idea of taking a basic product offering and translating it in a new way for the customer each season. Rag & Bone, for instance, always has the same basic tees no matter what the season – just often in different colorways. If you walk into a store, you’ll see tees styled under sweaters in the winter or next to pairs of shorts in the summer. By practicing seasonless design strategies, you will find that you not only cut down on pattern making costs – but also gives you a staple item that may just become one of your signature pieces (DVF wrap dress anyone?) ♥
